Ask me anything about construction or building codes...

[tanklv]

I'm an architect by profession, but I know almost everything concerning construction, from foundations, structure, and roofing to finishing, including basic carpentry, plumbing & electrical, as well as cabiinetry and furniture building.

I check the site every so often - usually a few times a week - so if you have any basic questions regarding building problems or code issues, I can probably answer it.

Can't stand the idiots on TV - they always do it perfect the first time - never have to correct mistakes. That's not the real world. Holmes is better, but even he's not always correct on what's legal or correct.

Building codes and ADA stuff, as well as flood, fire and water damage repair, including where to find it sources.

Thanks to this wonderful depression, I and literally thousands others like me find ourselves unemployed for the present.

Maybe others with similar expertise and I can help others with their problems/projects...

[ellipsis]

I'll keep you in mind for the future.

[Bitter Ashes]

I've got a question. How do you stop an abandoned building from falling down? Is there still a way you can rescue buildings that have fallen through rooftops and that on without spending any cash?

Oh and why did my flat come with tinfoil taped under the wallpaper? (just kidding, I know why they did that!) ;)

[tanklv]

I've got a question. How do you stop an abandoned building from falling down? Is there still a way you can rescue buildings that have fallen through rooftops and that on without spending any cash?

Oh and why did my flat come with tinfoil taped under the wallpaper? (just kidding, I know why they did that!) ;)

Well - you're going to need some decent timbers/lumber to help stabliize the existing exterior walls - so it's going to cost something unless you've got access to a stash of material you can scavenge.

If it's a masonry building (brick/stone), they can last longer than wood framed structures in a state of disrepair.

What kind of building are we talking about here?

The most important thing would be to get the roof repaired ASAP to prevent further damage.

On really old stone/brick buildings, the structure of the floors and roof help support the exterior walls. If the floors/roof are severely damaged, you'll need to brace the the walls that are left standing. If it's been abandoned or deteriorated for a long time, the remaining structure may be too far gone to save.

Good luck.

[Broletariat]

Talk to me about the structure of the arch, why is it bad to give an arch support from below?

[tanklv]

Talk to me about the structure of the arch, why is it bad to give an arch support from below?

Your premise is not entirely accurate - unless I am misunderstanding your question.

The object of an arch is to convey the force in a structure eventually to the ground/foundation - at least for a vertical arch. A dam acts like a horizontal arch with the "foundation" being the adjacent mountain the dam is constructed between. So you would always need support from below. The arch does not just magically float in space.

The nature of an arch necessarily takes a vertical force defined by the weight of the structure plus the weight the structure is supporting, and sends it first horizontally along the top of the "horizontal" portion of the arch, then in ever increasing fashion, transmits it along the shape of the arch eventually to an ever increasing vertical direction.

The whole purpose of the arch is to span a predefined horizontal distance between supports. A beam does this in a most direct manner, with the beam taking all of the vertical load placed on it and transmitting it horizontally directly to the wall/columns on either side (if not a cantelevered beam), and then vertically to the ground. If you made a diagram of the structural forces in the beam, they also form an "arch" shape.

An arch is almost like a seamless combination of a beam and column. The ideal form of arch is met when the vertical and horizontal forces are in sort of an equilibrium. Compensation for a lack of horizantal resistance is optained when the vertical portion is placed between something that provides a strong horizontal force like a buttress or adjacent arches, or the vertical members are thickened so than they can withstand the horizontal force by themselves.

In other words, when you press down on an arch, it wants to spread outwards from the center of the arch to the side. A pure vertical support like a column or wall will take the vertical forces simply and directly to the ground. That is why the center or keystone in an arch is so important. It is also why many early constructions of an arch failed until a successful balance was achieved. All arches are constructed with temporary "support from below" until all individual elements of the arch are in place, at which time the temporary supports is removed to reveal the completed arch.

I hope this helps. It's hard to do without diagrams.

[Bitter Ashes]

Well - you're going to need some decent timbers/lumber to help stabliize the existing exterior walls - so it's going to cost something unless you've got access to a stash of material you can scavenge.

If it's a masonry building (brick/stone), they can last longer than wood framed structures in a state of disrepair.

What kind of building are we talking about here?

The most important thing would be to get the roof repaired ASAP to prevent further damage.

On really old stone/brick buildings, the structure of the floors and roof help support the exterior walls. If the floors/roof are severely damaged, you'll need to brace the the walls that are left standing. If it's been abandoned or deteriorated for a long time, the remaining structure may be too far gone to save.

Good luck.
Usually he buildings that we're interested in trying to rescue are centuries old and made of Yorkshire stone.They're bought by the council who let the place rot for 10 years and then tear it down for another new fucking shopping centre. Historic buildings, with detailed stone carvings are torn apart with JCB's to make way for concrete and plate glass.

Sorry, I've gone off on a tangent. This shit really annoys me.

So, if we were to stretch tarpaulins over the holes in the roof, that'd help? We don't really have access to building materials, or ways to transport them, or cash for that matter. Is it worth treating the wooden beams if they're in danger of rotting away? Any tips on doing that?

Thanks for the help :)

[tanklv]

Usually he buildings that we're interested in trying to rescue are centuries old and made of Yorkshire stone.They're bought by the council who let the place rot for 10 years and then tear it down for another new fucking shopping centre. Historic buildings, with detailed stone carvings are torn apart with JCB's to make way for concrete and plate glass.

Sorry, I've gone off on a tangent. This shit really annoys me.

So, if we were to stretch tarpaulins over the holes in the roof, that'd help? We don't really have access to building materials, or ways to transport them, or cash for that matter. Is it worth treating the wooden beams if they're in danger of rotting away? Any tips on doing that?

Thanks for the help :)

OK - now we're getting somewhere. Can I assume you're in the UK?

Many of these stone structures are such that the walls are by themselves load bearing. Think of all the ruined churches that only have walls remaining. Sometimes, when timbers have fallen out of place and against a wall, they do more damage than if they were removed and set on the ground because their weight and leaning against the wall slowly causes the wall to collapse.

A tarp would help, indeed, but the tarp itself is really only VERY temporary - the tarp itself is intended as an emergency situation, and would not last over a year or so before the material would deteriorate. Same with any plastic material. The sun, let alone the constant changing of temps, does horrific damage. I tried to keep a wall patched in my home until I could afford to repair it - the sheeting I used to stabilize it would fail after a few months. I was forced to by this cementitious board to cover up the plastic sheeting and the hole.

Using a wood preservative treatment on the wood will help stabilize it IN IT'S PRESENT CONDTION. If the wood has termite. rot or other damage, it will not help the situation at all. A common liquid treatment like "Thompsons Water Seal" here in the US is commonly used. It's easy to apply, and soaks into the wood real good. Have to scrape off or clean the wood real good before applying. Some timbers such as cedar or redwood are naturally insect resistant. Hardwoods such as oak or maple are more resistant than softwoods like pine. If I'm remembering correctly from my time in England, most of the old timbers are oak.

[punisa]

Comrade tanklv, is it normal that a tiny line/crack appears at the ceiling?
I've moved into a new apartment on the first floor of the building that has been built somewhere in WW2 era. It was refurbished and all some months before I moved in.
Since then (2 years) I've noticed a straight line appearing on the ceiling, it seems as if the paint developed a crack, it runs for about 4 meters.
Is this normal?

Btw, the building is situated very close to the busy tram line and it is shaky throughout the day.

[manic expression]

Thanks so much for this thread! A few questions here...

Can you explain the advantages and disadvantages of various roof types? Specifically any opinions of gabled, hipped, mansard, flat and/or arched roofs in terms of efficiency and longevity would be very helpful.

What are the most effective (taking cost into account) methods to use concrete (both poured and precast) when designing an exterior? Will stucco or plaster improve its resistance to cracks and leaks, or will it achieve essentially the same performance as leaving the concrete exposed?

Lastly...is there any reason why the Guastavino tile fell out of favor?

[tanklv]

Comrade tanklv, is it normal that a tiny line/crack appears at the ceiling?
I've moved into a new apartment on the first floor of the building that has been built somewhere in WW2 era. It was refurbished and all some months before I moved in.
Since then (2 years) I've noticed a straight line appearing on the ceiling, it seems as if the paint developed a crack, it runs for about 4 meters.
Is this normal?

Btw, the building is situated very close to the busy tram line and it is shaky throughout the day.

It is "normal" in the sense that a building moves in all directions, and buildings are constructed so that they can best allow for all this movement. Think of the way your chest moves as you breath.

Now, there are probably a few reasons why this is happening.

The building is old. There is probably some settling over time. It is next to a tram line - that causes vibrations, which can result in cracking. It could also be caused by the structure the ceiling is attached to moving due to possible damage.

Have you checked above to see if there is/was any water damage? Water causes most of the damage of this type, if there is no other damage.

Buildings need attention, just like love must be nurtured to be sustained, or they will eventually turn to dust on their own.

A way to fix it is to get a roll of plaster "tape" that is either paper with holes in it, or a kind of mesh. Apply some plaster or joint compound along the length with a putty knive or wide blade, then press the tape into the wet "mud" - and work over with the knife/blade/trowell until the mud squishes out ontop of the tape. Work to be as smooth as possible, then sand to further finish it. The tape and joint compound should minimize, if not prevent, further cracking.

[The Dark Side of the Moon]

Usually he buildings that we're interested in trying to rescue are centuries old and made of Yorkshire stone.They're bought by the council who let the place rot for 10 years and then tear it down for another new fucking shopping centre. Historic buildings, with detailed stone carvings are torn apart with JCB's to make way for concrete and plate glass.

Sorry, I've gone off on a tangent. This shit really annoys me.

So, if we were to stretch tarpaulins over the holes in the roof, that'd help? We don't really have access to building materials, or ways to transport them, or cash for that matter. Is it worth treating the wooden beams if they're in danger of rotting away? Any tips on doing that?

Thanks for the help :)

Do not ever move to Detroit, ever

[tanklv]

Thanks so much for this thread! A few questions here...

Can you explain the advantages and disadvantages of various roof types? Specifically any opinions of gabled, hipped, mansard, flat and/or arched roofs in terms of efficiency and longevity would be very helpful.

What are the most effective (taking cost into account) methods to use concrete (both poured and precast) when designing an exterior? Will stucco or plaster improve its resistance to cracks and leaks, or will it achieve essentially the same performance as leaving the concrete exposed?

Lastly...is there any reason why the Guastavino tile fell out of favor?

Wow - LOTS of good questions.

First off, there is nothing inherently different in the longevity of any of the roofs except for the "flat" roof - it all depends on the "roofing" (covering - tiles, tar paper, shingles, stone, concrete, metal, etc.).

Flat roofs are the most prone to water damage, and are hardest to do properly, and are best suited to dry climates. There's good reasons they are most found on large community buildings - the successful application of the roofing system is best when many are involved.

As far as the rest of the roofs, the simple shed (single slope) or gable is the easiest to construct, followed by the hip, then the mansard, dutch gable (gambrial), and most difficult - the arched roof (mainly because of the difficulty fashioning curved framing pieces). It also depends on what you want to see as a result (beauty is in the eye of the beholder, etc.).

A shed roof directs the water to just one side, whereas the gable does it to two sides, and the hip to all sides. If water runnoff is a concern in any area, that is a consideration when deciding on a final form.

As to the concrete walls:

Precast is easier to construct, because it can be fabricated either on site or far away, in a position that is determined by the fabrication - usually horizontal. But it can be heavy to transport and erect.

Concrete that is poured in place in the final position can be easy in that it can be formed gradually, and doesn't require heavy lifting to the final position. Both require formwork. But pre-cast usually requires only a "pan" and less formwork, because the largest area (the wall surface) is the part that is open for the pour, whereas the wall in place has almost twice as much formwork, as the narrow/smalller top of the wall is open to pour concrete into.

No concrete is weatherproof by itself, and needs some form of finishing, even if it is just a clear sealer. Think of it as real hard bread (another baking project of mine that was less than successful, but I digress) - it can act as a sponge and eventually moisture will percolate thru.

If the final concrete cracks, you are generally introuble before any "finish" can be used to "correct" it. That's why concrete is usually poured in managable. maximuim sized sections, with expansion joints at regular intervals that are then sealed, to allow for expansion and contraction of the structure due to movement of the earth or temperature differences during the day or year. Foundations are really the only thing that is poured in relatively one complete "piece" at the same time. The reinforcement inside controls the cracking. Reinforcement in all types of concrete is what controls cracking.

Reinforcement is usually steel bars, but there is newer reinforcement that consists of synthetic small (1"/25mm long or so) fibers. Historically, straw and animal hairs have also been successfully used for reinforcement.

There is also a type of concrete that is part cement and part mud. Then there is also adobe, which is common to the Americas, Asia, Africa, India, etc, except most of Europe, which is made from a clay type mud.

Stucco is a finish, and is also subject to cracking - or not. Many real old structures have no cracking, and many newly constructed structures crack within the first 24 hours. A 1"/25mm thickness is usually common, applied in three layers. All stucco should be applied to a stable, rough subsurface, or onto a wire mesh to mitigate cracking.

Stucco can be either plaster or cement - plaster for only interiors, cement for exposure to weather. Cementitious stucco will also "weep" - moisture will percolate thru it to the substrate below. That's why you have to allow for the moisture to be safely conducted thru the stucco, along the wall, and safely to the exterior.

Elastomeric paints are the only finish that acts as a barrier and will prevent moisture from percolating thru, both concrete and stucco.

I am not readily familiar with Guastavino tile, but - all tile - tends to be more expensive than other roofing. The tile you mentioned is probably "out of favor" because of expense. But depending where you live, clay tiles can be quite affordable. Depends on the culture more than anything. All clay or concrete tiles are heavy and require about twice the structure (as a rule of thumb) for support as opposed to wood, metal or asphalt shingles. There is some metal roofing that is nearly self supporting.

[Bitter Ashes]

Do not ever move to Detroit, ever
:confused:

[manic expression]

Thank you for those answers...exactly what I was looking for! A few more questions I've been wondering about:

On the practice of architecture, how is one qualified? If someone passes the requisite examinations for an architect in one state, can they practice in another? What about between countries? If an American architect designs something to be built in, say, France, is it that the architect-of-record has to be French or does it not matter?

What do architects mean when they talk of "hierarchy" or "hierarchy of scale"? I keep hearing it used by architects but it's hard to know precisely how they're employing the term. I suspect it means that one space or one element controls others...but again it's hard to tell.

[xub3rn00dlex]

My family has a problem with our flood insurance company claiming our house will lift up and float away magically during a hurricane - except we just had one, and our basement didn't even flood. Any way to fight this?

[tanklv]

Thank you for those answers...exactly what I was looking for! A few more questions I've been wondering about:

On the practice of architecture, how is one qualified? If someone passes the requisite examinations for an architect in one state, can they practice in another? What about between countries? If an American architect designs something to be built in, say, France, is it that the architect-of-record has to be French or does it not matter?

What do architects mean when they talk of "hierarchy" or "hierarchy of scale"? I keep hearing it used by architects but it's hard to know precisely how they're employing the term. I suspect it means that one space or one element controls others...but again it's hard to tell.

The US is a "Federation" of States, hence, one can be licensed in one state, and not be allowed to practice in another unless they are licensed in that other state as well. Same with couintries, unless you're part of the Commenwealth - as a member of the RIBA (UK) I believe you can practice in any other commenwealth country as well - but it's been about 40 years since I was an RIBA member, so the rules may have been changed. Anyway, that's the way I remember it, and thought it was a great process for UK and the rest of the Commenwealth countries compared with the US.

In order for an American Architect to practice in any other country, they must be either licensed in that country, or be associated with an "Architect of Record" of that country to practice - but the "stamp" will be that of the AOR. That is similar to an Architect licensed in one state and doing work in another. Keep in mind that it is always illegal for a licensed Architect to just stamp another's work - the AOR must be deligently involved from the beginning and all work/documents must be under his direct SUPERVISION.

An clear exampleof "heirarchy of scale" would be designing an infill structure that is of the same height/stories as the adjacent structures. An example of not would be constructing a tall skyscraper in the middle of a neighborhood composed of one or two story structures.

[tanklv]

My family has a problem with our flood insurance company claiming our house will lift up and float away magically during a hurricane - except we just had one, and our basement didn't even flood. Any way to fight this?

The number one rule of any of the parasite insurance companies is - dissapprove/decline all claims - repeatedly - even if the claims are justified.

As far as a flood zone, usually an insurance company will not provide insurance at all in such areas. After having lived in Hawaii, many insurance companies simply just got up and left town instead of even looking at any claims following Hurricane Iniki and the one previous - EVEN THO THE INSURED PERSONS WERE IN FULL COMPLIANCE WITH THE POLICY AND DESERVED TO BE COMPENSATED!!! The State of Hawaii had to impose a surcharge on ALL of us "insured" persons to help pay for this criminal act. Allstate, Travelers, and many other "legitimate" companies currently in existence today got away scott free - another fine example of privatizing the profits and socializing the costs. There were many claims from the insurance companies that the hurricane didn't cause the damage, but "flooding" or "wind damage" - EVEN THO THE FLOOD OR WIND WAS CAUSED BY THE HURRICANE IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!

I heard the same thing happened in Florida following Hurricane Andrew.

All I can say is "good luck" and try to engage a good lawyer or someone familiar with this type of claim - sorry - it sucks - and these leeches on society should not be allowed to exist, IMO.

Now, back on to the discussion at hand, having a structure adequately anchored to a foundation is usually part of the building code - and the "uplift" due to the bouancy of the structure in a flood acting like a boat, or uplift due to wind being able to get under a structure and make it "sail away" in a windstorm, is a real concern.

If a structure does not comply with the local applicable codes (plural), then an insurance company will usually be on solid ground in denying a claim.

There is actually a moderately "simple" anchoring system that can be retroactively installed to help in this regard. "Simpson" connectors is just one of the more common/well known companies that manufacturer many types of anchors for all situations. Whichever item you use, make sure that all "holes" where the screws or nails go are used. Incorrectly nailed/screwed anchors are the most common error/mistake that results in failure. If you go online, a tech rep will be happy to assist you if you describe your unique problem, and even recommend places to get the anchors. Most hardware stores and home improvement places have nice large displays of all the anchors and their usual uses. Even I, with many years of experience, always like to talk to a rep before I spec such items, since the technology is always improving.

[The Dark Side of the Moon]

Im going to be putting in a deck, and I am putting post in 42 inches down. Is 8 inches of concrete good enough? And how wide the hole need to be?

[tanklv]

Im going to be putting in a deck, and I am putting post in 42 inches down. Is 8 inches of concrete good enough? And how wide the hole need to be?

I don't think I understand your circumstance fully.

The size and depth of the post footing depends on the soil condition and size of the structure the posts support.

Sandy soils support the least, while solid rock supports the best.

The foundation needs to be below any frost line in cold climates - usually 3 to 4 feet. Call up the local building authority and the guys on staff are usually really happy to help do-it-yourselfers - especially in this shitty economy where almost nothing is being built anymore...

Even the sales people at your local home improvement place are good to bounce your ideas off of - they even help me better define what I want to do and can ask questions that you may not consider. Never be reluctant to ask a few people on what you plan to do. I really miss a good friend who passed away recently - he was great for idea sharing...

[DeBon]

I have a few questions, I'll try to make make em easy.

1. In building a small livable, let's say 500sq cabin, off-grid, what am I facing legally? Also, if I build on on a piece of property that's 100% paid off, will I be taxed (I'm unfamiliar with such tax-related laws)? Also, any pro-tips in making said structure?

2. If, let's say, I build a geodesic structure, and it served as a greenhouse with food growing and fish being farmed, would there be any legal things I should be prepared for? Any tips on building such a structure are greatly appreciated as well.

3. Any tips for a solar farm? Should I have it on a concrete slat or something?

Best regard,
Comrade DeBon

[tanklv]

I have a few questions, I'll try to make make em easy.

1. In building a small livable, let's say 500sq cabin, off-grid, what am I facing legally? Also, if I build on on a piece of property that's 100% paid off, will I be taxed (I'm unfamiliar with such tax-related laws)? Also, any pro-tips in making said structure?

2. If, let's say, I build a geodesic structure, and it served as a greenhouse with food growing and fish being farmed, would there be any legal things I should be prepared for? Any tips on building such a structure are greatly appreciated as well.

3. Any tips for a solar farm? Should I have it on a concrete slat or something?

Best regard,
Comrade DeBon

Any "improvement" (building, parking lot, pond) on vacant land, even if it's "paid for", will be taxed at a greater rate than if said property had nothing on it. Likewise, if you remove an "improvement", the tax rate is lowered.

The rates depend on the locality - but everything is always and forever taxed.

Methods on how to build such a cabin can be many and varied. Depends on cost and availability of materials. I guess if you're in a large forest of good sized trees, you could build an honest to goodness "log cabin" - which is reallly labor intensive.

I suggest searching the net for what's out there - there are many companies and reference manuals for everything from log cabins, pre-manufactured log houses to bucky fuller geodesic domes and greenhouses. And even with commercial providers of such things, you can get a lot of info and details from them without actually buying anything.

Start with a few "subject" terms, like "cabins" or "log cabins" or "greenhouses", etc. and you will eventually be lead to many interesting and informative sites. But be sure to "save" the site to your "favorites" - I found a really interesting reference guide on British construction from the 1800's accidentally, and have never been able to find it again...sigh...

"Sweets Catalog" by McGraw Hill Construction books http://products.construction.com/ is an excellent site - it's organized on subject matter from appliances, doors and windows, elevators to sewers and everything in between, and from there you can go to individual websites. As the internet has grown, there is fewer and fewer companies placing their products with Sweets, BTW...

A good place to brouse would be your local university library - especially if it has a school of architecture. Even the "Whole Earth Catalog" had a section on building domes, greenhouses and log cabins, if I remember correctly. There's also great historical info on "sod" or "earth" houses where you compress the surrounding earth into walls.

Interesting fact: You can have earthen walls coated with a cement stucco or adobe like they did in the old southwest USA, or a combo of soil mixed with cement to make it last longer. Untreated soil will deteriorate after the first rains, while even adobe needs constant maintenence.

As for what you do inside your structures, that will depend on the local zoning code and whether you are doing it for sale to others or just yourself. Might need a business license, etc. I know it's a pain, but really all codes and rules and regulations are there to protect life and were usually initially developed after catastrophic loss of life. But remember, all codes are a MINIMUM of what needs to be done to be safe and sound.

Places like Honolulu are more particular on what you do inside your structure than are the outer islands. Places like NYC or LA or Vegas are extremely picky, while rural areas could almost care less what you do as long as it's legal. And rural place far removed from any living sole are the least concerned.

Again, tips for the building of such structures can more easily and thoroughly be obtained from a search of the net than I could give you here. As you narrow down your decision, I can always recommend answers to specific questions.

Solar does not need to be on concrete - just secured to a stable adequate base, whether it's the roof of another structure, or a support structure built specifically for the solar panels. As far as solar, are you talking about photovoltaic or passive, black "heat collecting" solar panels that heat and circulate water? The passive water based systems haven't changed much for 50 years or so, but there have been many improvements. The most improvements have been in photovoltaic cells - they're lots more prevalent now, and have become greatly reduced in price as well...

Remember, when building any structure, the object is not to prevent water from entering the structure and doing damage, but to safely conduct it around and thru the structure to the outside. A greenhouse multiplies that problem, because water is likely to collect from INSIDE the structure, as well as outside.

On Edit: I might add - check with the plant seed companies - I forgot whick one had a division that did them - it was a very old/familiar US company.

Here's what my search came up with: http://www.bing.com/search?q=Building+Green+House&FORM=QSRE7

[citizen of industry]

Tankly,

During the great Eastern Japan earthquake the cement foundation of my house received some small, hairline cracks. We had earthquake insurance so they took a look and gave us a few bones to get it repaired. Is that actually necessary or can I keep the money for other uses? Many people didn't have earthquake insurance, so their houses also received similar damage and they aren't getting it repaired. It's a pretty new house, about 4 years old, quite small, taller than is wide.

I fixed a few tiles that fell off. My garage and the plaster also have some cracks but insurance doesn't cover that and it's no big deal. The foundation on the other hand...

[DeBon]

Wow, a lot of useful information there. Thank you very much comrade. :D

[tanklv]

Tankly,

During the great Eastern Japan earthquake the cement foundation of my house received some small, hairline cracks. We had earthquake insurance so they took a look and gave us a few bones to get it repaired. Is that actually necessary or can I keep the money for other uses? Many people didn't have earthquake insurance, so their houses also received similar damage and they aren't getting it repaired. It's a pretty new house, about 4 years old, quite small, taller than is wide.

I fixed a few tiles that fell off. My garage and the plaster also have some cracks but insurance doesn't cover that and it's no big deal. The foundation on the other hand...

One thing, the todays insurance companies will ALWAYS try to deny any claims as much as possible!!! THEY ARE IN IT TO MAKE AS MUCH MONEY AS POSSIBLE AND PAY OUT AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE!!! Getting a good engineer to look at it and make a report to your claim can help a lot, and the insurance company will be liable to pay for the engineer, as well as the new work! (I used to be the Architect for homeowners to file claims against defective construction). We always looked for anything we could find - because usually the final verdict was for less than the claim, and knowing this in advance, we were able to pay for the work we REALLY wanted in the first place had we filed for just that minimal claim!

To be really sure, it's best to have a structural engineer or architect look at it in person, but generally, hairline cracks are simply from the movement and occur naturally over time as the building settles, etc., even without an earthquake.

All foundations should have proper reinforcement, and newer/recent buildings should have the best construction of all due to the current codes, and the delligence of building departments, etc.

For example, back in the 1950's, my father built our foundation in the house I grew up 12 inches (300 mm) in width, even tho an 8 inch (200 mm) thickness was recommended/deemed adequate. That sucker will never fail! The latest codes still recommend the same minimum width.

REMEMBER: ALL CODES ARE "MIMINUM" STANDARDS!!! IT DOESN'T HURT TO BUILD SOMETHING WITH LARGER/BIGGER MATERIALS - IN FACT, ALL CODES STATE JUST THAT IN THEIR BEGINNING PAGES!

If the concrete is "crumbly" and in many pieces, or is noticably out of plumb or leaning or irregular in any way, then you would have a serious problem.

But, generally speaking, if it appears sound, is pretty much in it's present alignment (plumb), with no bulges, etc., and the cracking is not too frequent, then it should be OK.

My grandmother's house was built in the early 1900's (about 1910 or so) on concret blocks, which eventually got out of plumb, and with big cracks - we had so methodically, bit by bit, remove the defective portions and replace with new, sound portions. The house next door was even worse, with the foundation walls leaning out very noticably - they had to jack the house up and construct a completely new foundation.

One thing we did recently, is take out 10-20 foot (3000 mm to 6000 mm) sections in a "checker board" fasion, leaving the majority of the existing foundation intact until the portions of the new ones took hold, then proceeded to the next segment, until the whole foundation was successfully replaced. Very labor intensive, but no need to jack the whole house up, and hold it there till the new foundation was constructed, either.

Even tho I generally can't stand the guy because some of his "defects" are not really critical, the show "Holmes on Holmes" on the House and Garden network had some pretty good shows where he fixed a totally defective foundation - one where they just poured a new one beside the defective one. At least it can give you an idea of the magnitude of a really bad condition and what was needed to repair it.

http://www.hgtv.com/holmes-on-homes/show/index.html

Most hairline cracks would be a problem with letting in water from the adjacent ground. The best thing is to dig around the outside of the foundation and install a waterproof below grade waterproofing membrane - liquid or sheets are available. With the liquid, you have to be careful to maintain a minimm thickness.

If you're near the ocean or salt water, DON'T UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY PRODUCT WITH VOLCANIC CLAY PARTICLES!!!

While it generally works just fine with fresh water, it has been proven to be a failure with salt water.

A common product is "Volclay" - and with exposure to salt water, it never forms a gelatinous shield, and just eventually deteriorates. That product was recommended by our waterproofing consultant in Honolulu, and at the time it was considered a good solution. We had to dig up the whole thing and start over with another waterproofing material after only a few years - this was on a skyscraper underground parking garage - and in Honolulu, the water table is a 3 feet (900 mm) below the surface!

[citizen of industry]

Thanks Tanklv! This thread is awesome.

[tanklv]

Thought I'd kick this for those who haven't seen it - seems there are still questions people have as evidenced by a couple newer threads...

[tanklv]

Just a small "kicik" for those that don't know about this thread.

I'll kick it every few months if there is no activity, unless you all think that this should "die".

It just seemed something helpful I could do in the real world/real time. I know a lot of us are hurting now...

[ellipsis]

I am curious about property owners who hold on to vacant properties that they dont use and aren't trying to immediately sell. Any insight into when/why they choose to have people maintain or keep the buildings up to code?

[tanklv]

I am curious about property owners who hold on to vacant properties that they dont use and aren't trying to immediately sell. Any insight into when/why they choose to have people maintain or keep the buildings up to code?

Usually there is NO incentive/penalty for keeping/failing to keep up a property. In fact, too many times a city just lets the perfectly sound structures ROT till they are a risk to health and safety - then the city/people get to spend money on the private property to demolish the unsafe structures while the property owner gets to still own and profit off
the property. The ownership is so convoluted and clouded that most times it's hard to determine who actually owns the parcel and is responsible for it - that is if the corrupt city officials actually WANT to know this information in the first place!

"Privatizing the profits and socializing the risks".

Vacant property is always taxed way less than one with a structure on it.

That's why older citys like Detroit and Buffalo have a lot of parking lots where buildings once stood - some once considered architectural masterpieces.

[ellipsis]

So the goal is to generally spend as little as possible, if they have to?

[ellipsis]

also imagine that 1/2 steel plates have been welded on to the outside of a metal gate, connecting it to the frame to prevent it from being opened... is there any easy way to break possibly shit welds? i can post pictures if needed.

[manic expression]

I'm very happy to find this thread active. Just a few questions from me: I've been seeing more architects using oxidized zinc or steel in their designs...is this type of treatment very expensive? Is oxidized zinc or steel literally rusted metal, and if so are there any safety concerns (probably a dumb question but still)?

What do you think about indirect lighting? Does it really improve interior ambiance or is it more architects stroking their ego making making things "different"?

[tanklv]

So the goal is to generally spend as little as possible, if they have to?

Yes - but it is more likely to game the system for their own profit at the expense of the rest of the community.

Lousy, isn't it!

You will find "good" and "responsible" landlords, but they are few and far between, especially in America. That's why we have once beautiful cities like Detroit that are such a wasteland today. No other country has allowed it's great cities to rot as America has done...

[tanklv]

also imagine that 1/2 steel plates have been welded on to the outside of a metal gate, connecting it to the frame to prevent it from being opened... is there any easy way to break possibly shit welds? i can post pictures if needed.

Depending on the thickness of the metal, a nice "sawsall" type saw with a metal cutting blade is a possibility.

Of course, a welding/cutting torch is probably the best...

[tanklv]

I'm very happy to find this thread active. Just a few questions from me: I've been seeing more architects using oxidized zinc or steel in their designs...is this type of treatment very expensive? Is oxidized zinc or steel literally rusted metal, and if so are there any safety concerns (probably a dumb question but still)?

What do you think about indirect lighting? Does it really improve interior ambiance or is it more architects stroking their ego making making things "different"?

"Galvanizing" steel, which is what "oxidized zinc" is, is OK as far as it goes - it should be considered only a "primer" and a durable coat of paint applied and MAINTAINED over the years. The galvanizing only inhibits the rusting of the metal, but does not stop it. If you are near the ocean or in a particularly wet environment, it is practically useless - the steel will soon rust in less than a couple years if not coated with a proper primer/paint system. I've lived in Buffalo and Hawaii, and the galvanized stuff rusted pretty quickly - more so in Hawaii. But here in Las Vegas, I've had unpainted galvanized metals that are rust free due to the extremely dry/almost moisture free environment. But in any case, galvanizing metal is better than raw or uncoated metal.

Also, for what it's worth, using galvanized nails will allow for a stronger/longer lasting fastening than uncoated nails - but they are harder to pound in...and they are very hard to remove...

Indirect lighting is very subjective - as in "beauty is in the eye of the beholder". The only way to find out is to try it - take a simple light fixture with a solid piece that directs the light on one side of the light bulb, and direct the light with the bulb at a wall where you don't see the light bulb, and see how the light is, compared with the bulb directly illuminating you - you will see the effects directly. I have such a light next to my bed, and even I can't make up my mind which way to go - depends on if I'm doing a task like reading or fixing something, or just cleaning the room or for general illumination.

Generally speaking, indirect light is gentler and more "soft", and generally will illuminate the whole room, with less shadows, while direct lighting is more harsh but brighter on one particular spot like a book.

Same for "warm" light bulbs (more to the "yellow" end of the spectrum) versus "bright white" bulbs or the difference between incandescants and fluorescents (fluorescents frequency is more noticable than incandescants - people with some aislements - neurological or visual impairments - are disturbed more by fluorescents). The fluorescents will use less energy for the same wattage - and the new LED light bulbs can be almost any spectrum from warm (natural like the sun) to cold (white) - but they are much more expensive - but they last about 10 to 20 years and use almost a quarter or less of the energy for the same brightness - and they are getting cheaper almost every single day...

Another way to look at is like a bright cloudy day versus a cloudless sunny day - big difference.

Again, lighting is very subjective.

[tanklv]

Kickity Kick.

It's been a few months - so I'm giving it a kick again.

[tanklv]

nt

[Popular Front of Judea]

Glad to see you keeping this thread up tanklv. What is going on with you? Have you found work -- or have you joined the prematurely retired?

[Comrade Jacob]

How do you construct construction tools?

[tanklv]

Glad to see you keeping this thread up tanklv. What is going on with you? Have you found work -- or have you joined the prematurely retired?

I have joined the "prematurely retired" and am active in volunteering and helping my neighbors. Becoming ever more disillusioned with the whole economic construct where I am, and am endeavoring to no longer contribute to it.

Now I am endeavoring to make whole my habitat so I can free up more of my time without having to worry about my own existence.

Thanks for asking.

[tanklv]

How do you construct construction tools?

Good question, and a lot more difficult. I have never had to actually make my own tools, but my father and grandfather have taught me how to repair and maintain tools.

Generally, a good grinding wheel, a source of heat to solder/weld and basic tools are necessary to produce more complex tools. I have been to a tool manufacturing plant that my grandfather used to work in and retired from, and they had large presses and "stamping" machines that would fashion tools.

You can reshape an old screw driver into an awl, or even re-grind a damaged one into a functioning one with surprisingly little effort. A collection of small "grinding stones" is invaluable in keeping knives sharp, etc.

I never discard any old tools I come across. Even kitchen utensils may come in handy - I have old hand-cranked "mixers" from pre 1950's that are like new and still work fine should the power fail. Plus metal wire basket like things that hold old bars of soap that were used to create suds for washing dishes by swishing them back and forth. My sister has my mom's and grandmothers old glass "scrubbing boards" that were used to do laundry, and my grandmothers old foot pedal sewing machine that still works. I think I have my grandfather's old shoe "foot" used to make/repair shoes (looks like a metal foot on a wood post) - was creepy when I was a young boy!

Still have and use a hand made saw filing stand my dad made, and it's relatively easy to make a wooden "mitre-box" from scrap lumber to hand saw cut accurate angles.

There are lots of old 1800's and even mid 20th century books that are like old reference volumes that contain all sorts of info on making/maintaining tools that I come across, but you have to be on the lookout for them. The internet is a great tool for searching out old books. Estate sales from carpenters/machinists/architects, etc. are a great resource for picking up valuable information.

Chicken wire, old pallets and other discarded items are great to create things.